CREWEL EMBROIDERY – WOVEN ARTISTRY

Kashmir valley is heaven for culture lovers, drenched in thousands of years of blended arts & crafts, traditions and rich heritage. Apart from being an important scenic city, Srinagar is known worldwide for its unique handicrafts and handloom products. Some kind of elegant art work is present almost in everything in Jammu and Kashmir, be it intricate embroidery, papier-Mache, copper ware and wood work. When on the lookout for exquisite home décor, Crewel is a craft that has always mesmerized many people. Hand crafted in a beautiful valley caught between the majestic Pir Panjal and the glorious Himalayan range, crewel embroidery is actually as ancient as the 1st Century B.C and remained forgotten in history until the later part of the 16th century. Legend has it that the word Crewel originates from an ancient word, “a curl in a single hair of wool”, which has been lost in the folds of language over centuries. Crewel embroidery, or Crewelwork, is a type of surface embroidery using wool. A wide variety of different embroidery stitches are used to follow a design outline applied to the fabric using a technique that is at least a thousand years old. It is essentially a running chain stitch that is tightly embroidered with a hook or pointed crochet – referred to as the ‘aari’ in India – to create solid patterns. The compact stitching magnifies the richness of the designs on background fabric that can be cotton, organza, velvet, linen or jute suitable for curtains and upholstery projects (except organza which is a sheer fabric). These fabrics also find good use in making bedspreads, throws, pillows and even rugs. The process of embroidery begins from a naqash (designer) and ends at the washer and during the course of this journey, it passes through an elaborate process (weaving, washing, designing & perforation, tracing, embroidery, washing and ironing). Each step bringing it a little closer to its ultimate impeccable regal look. The motifs embroidered are primarily floral and are inspired by favorite blossoms in the horticultural regions of Kashmir including Pamposh (lotus), Gulab (rose), Sarav (cypress), Dainposh (pomegranate), Sosan (iris), Sumbal (hyacinth), and Yambarzal (narcissus). Other motifs that tend to be popular in Kashmir are those of animals (lions, rabbits, horses, deer), birds (bulbuls, partridges, herons, ducks) and even the samovar, or tea-pot native to Kashmir. The resulting piece, due to its stark beauty and brazen demeanor finds its place in artsy homes, where they effortlessly blend in with those dream themes and lend their charm to the abode of the art lovers and the minimalists alike.

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